THE RAPHA LONG-SLEEVED SHIRT

“Whenever anyone asks what I do, I tell them I’m an artist… You can see it in how I dress, how I talk and how I ride.” Rapha

Rapha is not a new name, but it is still a relatively unknown cyclewear specialist, especially here in the Far East. Founded by Simon Mottram, Rapha was named after a now-defunct team for which Tom Simpson (of “put me back on the bloody bike” fame) once rode. Perhaps the spirit of that Brit rider sums up the ethos of Rapha; their love of riding does not preclude suffering, but rather is in spite of it. I remember a quip that goes (and I paraphrase), “riders are always looking for the moment when suffering and glory meet”. To me, Rapha embodies that quest not just in their attitude, but in the products that they design.

So what is it, you may ask, about the long-sleeved cycling shirt that embodies suffering and glory? Well, to this, I answer that there is no need to look bad while one is in agony. Bodybuilders go by the mantra, “Feel the pain, spare the shame”. More than one pro cyclist will tell you that looking nonchalant while your competitors are in the throes of extreme distress delivers a deadly psychological blow to them and an unassailable edge to you. The trick is to master the right look at the right time.

The Rapha long-sleeved shirt was originally designed for the city commuter in mind, one who may need to jump into the boardroom immediately after locking his bike. To that end, the shirt is impeccably tailored, ready without any ceremony whatsoever to accept a blazer, silk tie and dress trousers. The cuffs sport 4 buttons each to allow room for wrist accessories, and the gauntlets are double-buttoned. Although I am not a particular fan of this feature, hidden collar buttons are provided to prevent ties from riding up, causing unsightly ‘dog-ears’.

But apart from its sartorial function and elegance, the shirt is made first and foremost for the cyclist. The material is slightly stretchy (4% Elastane) to help with assuming an aero-position, and is claimed to wick away sweat quickly and effectively. The 4-panel construction allows for maximum comfort and freedom of movement. The back pocket is very useful for those energy gels or even your company’s security access cards. The slim-fit design minimizes wind flap, and the top three buttons are covered to prevent the shirt from snagging and also to give it a more finished, sporty look. A decorative fabric strip adorns the inside collar, and all buttons are engraved with the Rapha logo. Button-holes are also reinforced with additional stitching, and offset seams at the shoulder area helps to prevent seam-stacking when wearing a wind jacket. It’s a beautiful, functional piece of art.

Rapha’s customer service is second-to-none. After placing my order of the shirt for an upcoming tour (more of which below), I discovered that their usual shipping method might cause it to arrive after my departure date. I sent a frantic email to Rapha explaining that I needed it urgently, and they responded by having my package reach me an astounding 2 days later. You can tell that Mottram’s guys really care about their customers; they know that delivering the product experience is a holistic process, mess one step up and the customer will not get full satisfaction. My hats off to you, Rapha!

I tried out the shirt in its most testing conditions – a 4-day tour in Sawarak from Kuching to Miri (total 850km). On the third day, when we were visiting the homes of underprivileged children for whom the fund-raising ride was organized, I opted to wear this piece of haute couture throughout that entire day’s riding, all 60 kilometres of it. The temperature that day, out of the shade, was 42 degrees celsius. There was hardly a single cloud in the sky. Some of the riders thought I had gone quite mad. The shirt, to its credit, held up very well indeed under those punishing conditions. At certain points in the ride, I did find myself wishing there was more stretch to the fabric, but that would be churlish –the product is not designed for long-distance touring. For this reason, I do not recommend using this shirt for long multi-day rides. I also realized that the shirt does not allow perspiration to evaporate as quickly as a Lycra jersey. Then again, commuting in a temperate country usually does not produce such copious the amounts of sweat as I was subjecting the shirt to. If you are planning on doing strenuous riding in the tropics wearing this shirt, do wear a baselayer of some kind; an Armani (SGD250) or a Flying Wheel (SGD2.50) cotton singlet should do equally well.

At USD140, this is not an inexpensive piece of apparel. However, in a world where high-end cycling jerseys routinely sell for over USD200 a piece, owning a shirt that would look right at home on a bicycle or hanging in a London bespoke menswear shop for this price begins to look rather reasonable. And being able to ride without looking like a mobile advertising board? Priceless.